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jeffersParticipantI notice the red has the usual hole punched in the solid crust to get the last gasp of life out of the tin (I’ll bet it’s only been used twice). I still have the screwdriver my dad gave me for that very purpose.
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jeffersParticipantI’m with Deephorse. I’m still using brushes with a fine point that I would have lost years ago if I was still on enamels. The key is to regularly ’swiggle’ the brush in a pot of water and that way it stops the acrylic drying on the brush. Plus I have used Vallejo pots right down to the last drop; something I never managed with enamels which always dried out. We all have our ways, likes and dislikes but I will never go back (even if I do really miss the smell of Humbrol gloss).
Stephen – I checked on eBay and found somebody selling Airfix paints in the original glass jars! Lord knows what state they are in, but they used to have a decent pigment.
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jeffersParticipantJoker – we’ll be after a trade deal soon, so we’ve got to be nice!
Really, for the price you can afford to dump the awkward poses: I suppose it depends how picky you are! I was told some years ago by a Civil War re-enactor in Virginia that the US army had problems getting some of the farm boys to stand up straight, so it could actually be more realistic than I think…
My plan (like so many, it has stalled) was to use 30 figure units because I like the idea of fewer but larger and the militia would look great with different shapes, sizes, poses, styles etc. If I were in the US, though, I would go for the Old Glory saver scheme. They have some odd poses too, but they paint up well and OG2 are really nice. I’ll ask Boris to put that in the trade deal!
You have now prompted me to get up in the loft and sort my AWI figures out… 🕺🏻
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jeffersParticipantWell, a decent bundle of toys for £85 is pretty good value, but the figures are so-so. I think they were originally Wargames Factory (or something like that) so fit together far better than Warlord’s native offerings, but they have a strange ‘stooping’ effect on a lot of the poses that make them look ashamed. But as tax dodging traitors they should be. 😉
I have a bunch of militia which I was going to mix with other manufacturers to give a real random look, so the Quasimodo impressions I can live with. Perry figures are superior, but Warlord give you a good base and are cheaper, so if you can stand the stoop then go for it.
7/10
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jeffersParticipantBandit – it’s the Bowden/Tarbox book. It could have been something by Gunther Rothenberg, though. I can be excused: it was over 30 years ago!
To complete my Napoleonic heresy, my Grenadiers carry a Leibfahne and my line regiments only carry an Ordinarfahne. The yellow breaks up the white a bit… And to totally blow the button counter mind, the few 10mm I have have both flags in the same unit.
I’m a very naughty boy…
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jeffersParticipantNo, because my first Austrian units circa 1986 were assembled with the flag on the right. From memory, I think it was from Armies on the Danube. However, a bloke I knew who had far more Nappy knowledge than me said that was nonsense and the flag moved to the right for manoeuvre only; otherwise it stayed central like everybody else’s.
I’m still none the wiser, so my current Austrian infantry carry it centrally because it looks better like that!
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jeffersParticipantSame as The Sage. I still have a Revell Dambusting Lancaster my dad painted in 1976. All Humbrol paints brushed directly on black plastic with no need to undercoat. Couldn’t do that now.
I blame the pro modellers and the move to airbrushes which need thinner pigment. Honestly, I’ve seen one airbrush black on a 1/72 ejector seat. Why? Just brush paint the ****ing thing! Even if it’s not true, I need a scapegoat and they will do.
However, the move to acrylic was a positive one and I will not move back, so every cloud etc.
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jeffersParticipantThis won’t help you at all, but I’ve happily used an old cotton blanket for desert games since at least 1974! And I’ve seen Colin Rumford use a tie-dyed sheet…
However, slightly less messy what about a painted cloth decorating sheet (heavier than a bed sheet)? Use a thin emulsion for the base colour and spray with various shades of grey, sand, brown etc for effect. Works for ‘temperate climates’.
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jeffersParticipantOddly, I discovered Neil Thomas’ books because of an adverse review. What the reviewer didn’t like was the thing I was after. Perhaps sometimes the enemy of my enemy is my friend.
I suppose I’m fortunate that I’m settled on rules so can indulge the odd £20 or so on a new set to see what it’s like for myself. After all, it might be the holy grail… But that’s not the same as forking out £60 plus for a complete game. If I don’t like the rules, big deal; I’ll still have the toys. With a game you can’t move on and keep the counters, or whatever. It’s all effectively binned (like all bar one of my S&T mags) so a decent, knowledgeable review – as Chris stated above – is vital.
Btw, I have a list of individuals and companies I now know I will never see eye to eye with so can completely ignore their offerings. Bet I’m not alone 😉
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jeffersParticipantGreat 3D effect.
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jeffersParticipantThumbs up from me. The magnetic paint & base idea is brilliant.
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jeffersParticipantAt first I thought you were just showing off your copy of The Beatles’ White Album.
Now I realise your are wargaming’s hardest umpire….
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jeffersParticipantI thought the £ sign would give it away… 😉 It probably depends where you are in the UK. According to one of the staff, they don’t order in they are just sent stuff so once it goes it goes.
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jeffersParticipantBrilliant game. Played the Outremer variant many times and had a blast.
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jeffersParticipantSadly, I won’t take any more film of flying legends. Last year, I popped out of the office and heard an unusual sound: I looked up and lo! The Sea Vixen was being put through its paces prior to a display. I duly filmed it on my iPhone. Three days later it pancaked on a runway. One week after that my iPhone crashed and I lost the film.
I am now convinced I am the Uncle Albert of air displays.
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jeffersParticipantI could watch this all day!
One of the best comments I’ve ever seen on YouTube was that we should petition the government to make the sound of a Rolls Royce Merlin the National Anthem.
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jeffersParticipantI love these rules and find them the best for recreating battles of the period (or from what I’ve read, anyway!). The only issue I have with the Franco-Prussian era is the ability of the Prussian artillery to ‘stand off’ at range rather than be pushed forward and risk being shot up by chassepot fire (you can tell I have only played as French…). As they are simple a short -1 over XXcm should suffice, but that is for the future…
I found the saving rolls a bit of a pain at first, but likewise I structured a ‘short form’ of the rules that speeds things up. You can find them here if interested with some of my minor tweaks:
http://jefslittlewinki.pbworks.com/w/page/133892790/1866
The biggest problem I have with this book is that it’s too tempting to dip into other wars…
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jeffersParticipantI love the idea of epic 2.5mm! But I suppose if you are into pom-poms you have to sacrifice some table space… Following this with interest.
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jeffersParticipantA poignant and dignified ending to one of the greatest films ever made. No schmaltz, flag waving, whooping or high-fiving – just a quiet recognition of the cost of success in war. Brings a lump to my throat every time.
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jeffersParticipantThen lead on those and not the fantasy. But you’re the boss and if it thats what sells then fair enough. Like I said, if this is your thing…
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jeffersParticipantFantasy, scifi, yawn, avoid….
Sorry, I really shouldn’t post anything derogatory but I remember a time when this magazine inspired me. If this is your thing, then great, it’s your hobby. To me, it’s like watching an old friend in declining health.
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jeffersParticipantAll of them…
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jeffersParticipantRegarding lists, I’ve never bothered and avoid rules that are based around them. I’ve not much time for the BP-based family but one thing in their favour was that they were aimed at sociable, not competition, play.
You could, however, use the points system for attributes in a campaign. Experience = points to buy special skills: steady, first fire etc.
What I do when building an army now is work out how many of the ‘bulk’ troops I want (I.e. Line infantry) then work out the rest in proportion. I tend to work in numbers divisible by 3 with 12 as the maximum.
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jeffersParticipantExcellent blog with equally good responses. I tend to keep the classics for inspiration but most of my rules are either from Neil Thomas or modifications of free sets from magazines or the web.
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jeffersParticipantYou too, Hafen! I stopped enjoying birthdays at about 14 when people began to give me clothes as presents because it was ‘grown up’…
I donated my copy to the local hospice shop and it was snapped up within days. Goes to show it still has shelf appeal!
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jeffersParticipantNote the parts of other articles in the PDFs: a review of Intro to Battle Gaming, a lady assembling Dinky spitfires and behind the scenes at Captain Scarlet. Those were the days!
*Note I turned 53 today so am more nostalgic than usual.
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jeffersParticipantThat explains everything. I have to lower my standards and look in poor people shops.
I also tried in Millman’s Chemist in Egham, which my family had used since before I was born. Mr Millman looked at me as if to say ‘is there something you need to tell your parents?’
According to Callan (Andy, not Edward Woodwoodwoodwood) the original idea was from a letter by J Tapp in the June 1980 Mil Mod. Yes, I still have the article….
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jeffersParticipantIs it sad that I spent time in Boots as a teenager looking for those specific hair rollers with no success?
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jeffersParticipantNo probs, glad to be of service. I’ve got the Chi Ha and it’s a decent robust wargaming model. I bought a Churchill for a chum some years ago and that’s very nice. I would say they are mid way between 1/32 and 1/35, but not bad for the price.
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jeffersParticipantDo you mean CTS?
https://www.drumandflag.co.uk/collections/vendors?q=CTS
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jeffersParticipantNot pretentious at all, Mike. In fact I’d rather game with someone who wants to build narrative than uses it to prove what a brilliant general they are, or as some exercise in intellectual superiority. Best games I used to have were in the garden with 1/32 figures before I started ‘proper’ wargaming. Then I used simple skirmish rules (Recon with tweaks) to do commando raids akin to Guns of Navarone etc. I’d have a rough idea where it would go but the rules would give it an element of chance to take events in a surprising direction. More fun than competing any day.
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jeffersParticipantZippy nailed it. It’s all about appropriate behaviour and respect for whoever is taking time to give you entertainment. If it’s not your scene, just say ‘thank you’ and get your coat because it makes nobody happy.
But, unless you are Callan, there really is no such thing as a ‘deadly serious game’ with toy soldiers.
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jeffersParticipantI tried them many years ago when I was experimenting with artists paint (oils etc) rather than Humbrol or Airfix enamels. None of them gave me any better results and the gouache was the worst!
When I discovered modellers acrylics (or at least when the quality improved over early Humbrol and Tamiya) I transferred my loyalty to them. I still use the odd tin of Humbrol, but wouldn’t bother with artists stuff again.
Oddly, I still have my original pots of Humbrol Acrylic (dating from about 1985). I use them to hold my masters for sculpting. Some still have liquid paint inside.
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jeffersParticipantOh boy, does this bring back memories. Back in the early 80s I lived about 15 miles away from Frimley and used to cycle to his house to collect orders and save postage. Seems absolutely mental now, but in those days I was time rich and cash poor! Very nice chap, though, and always patiently answered my stupid questions.
Lord knows what happened to all the figures. I think my parents gave them away.
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jeffersParticipantRaiders of the Lost Ark.
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jeffersParticipantLionel Tarr’s rules are worth a look too. Oddly, I actually gamed a few times with his mate, Carl Reavely in about 1984/85. I find old books & rules more inspirational than modern stuff.
If you want something for the kids, my daughter had a blast thrashing me with Neil Thomas One Hour Rifle & Sabre rules when she was eight. Nine periods’ worth of rules in the book and 30 scenarios. Armies are four to six units, depending on the scenario. Great for starters (or simple rules for big games…).
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jeffersParticipantI’m a fan of BPM and the lines don’t bother me at all as they easily pass the arms length test. Just finished a bunch of 1/76 Soviet Cold War vehicles and they are more than good enough for the table.
I’ve got a Grant turret to see if it works as a replacement for the dodgy ones on my Airfix kits. To make it fit in a bit better I’m going to try and smooth it with liquid milliput.
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jeffersParticipantHappy Birthday – but you’re still a youngster to me! I was 10 in 1976. Well, for the latter half anyway. I actually read it in the mid eighties, but bought one of John Curry’s reprints last year. Wouldn’t use them myself, but a fascinating read with some good ideas.
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jeffersParticipantGavin Lyall wrote Operation Warboard. You must be a youngster, Russell!
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jeffersParticipantEmbrace the fear! Other people are overrated, especially wargamers. I’m currently tempted to do a John Ruddles and game in the garden with simple old school rules. Just pop out when the weather is nice and do a move or two. And you can have ships on the lawn.
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