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Lollipop sticks?
You mean the rounds sticks or the popsicle kind?
As somebody who has had to do a bit of walling, remember the stones aren’t normally as big as a vehicle wheel
For scale, think of them as averaging about the size of a head of a figure at that scale 
But seriously it looks good. Go for itThanks for the info. Yes you are right. Next time, I should be more cautious about the size of the stones. It was just a test so I wont use this piece of wall finally.
Very good! The coulour of stones may depend on the area. In some places (as where I live) you could have stones of slightly different colours, some may be blue-ish, others red-ish, or almost yellow… It would not do good to exaggerate this, but some slight shades can help.
Thanks. Next time, I will add more color variation. I was thinking about adding also a bit of green to make it looks like mosses were growing between and on the stones.
Look up deep cut studio. I have a couple I bought from meeplemart in Toronto. Their stock is hit or miss but you could order from the manufacturer. You can also get different materials, including fabric.
Thanks for the link but I think I will make my own cloth.
I tart up flannel bedsheets with rattle cans and a light sprinkle of fine flock (sealed w/pva). A couple tables/examples*:
I lay on roads (weedblock+caulk) for those 15mm games but plan to just sprinkle on ballast for the planned 6mm tables – similar to the paths/sunken roads in the photos. Specific areas are easy to delineate with groundcover/ballast.I Want to build a cloth similar to yours because it’s simple and I really like how it looks.
1. What kind of flannel bedsheets did you use? Is it possible to show me some pictures or if you can find a link on amazon it would be great.
2. Do you have other photos of your cloth for inspiration?
Thanks for your help!
Your test looks pretty good. Assuming 1/285 scale, a three foot wall would be about .126″ or about 1/8″ tall, 6 foot is twice that, eight foot would be .336″. Thickness could be anything from about ten inches up to a couple of feet, or more. A ten inch thick wall would be under 1/16″ in scale and really hard to work with.
I might base them on strips of .03 or .04 inch sheet styrene plastic maybe 1/4 to 3/8 wide, sanding the edges of the plastic to blend into the base terrain. I would probably give the foam a coating of either an acrylic paste or matte medium to make it a little more resistent to damage;
The wall sections could be coated on the bottom with matte medium and then superglued to the bases, or glued with matte medium or white or tacky glue.
A problem with the foam walls is that they are very light weight, so can easily be diplaced with a light touch. I’d be looking for ways to add some weight to the sections, though at this scale, there isn’t a lot that can be done. Resin can be impregnated with metal powder, bases could be made of brass strips, etc.
Wow thanks for all the info. I am posting a new picture of my wall once cut to give an idea of its height compared to some of my vehicules.
I need to find some materials to create a base and also a way to add some weight to this base because, like you said, it’s very light. The base should be thin and add some weight. Maybe I could glue some dried clay on top of the base (see one of my earlier thread about using real soil to create terrain).
We don’t see as many color variation in the bricks as the photos I posted before because I used too many paint while drybrushing. So I shoul repaint my wall again because of my mistake. I also need to do the other side but first, lets find a proper base to glue my wall.
Thanks everyone for all the links and tips. I will check all of them but I think I will go with a clear rod.
Finally, after adding putty and two layers of black primer, we can’t see which of my aircrafts have been screwed 😉
I have little touch-ups to do because the paint on the edges of the wings is disappearing. I didn’t want to buy decals so I decided to paint the red star and I must say that from a few inches away, we can’t really tell it was painted.
Here is a picture of my russian Yak completed. I tried to match my painting with the picture below.
Far easier to buy a ready printed one(s).
Do you know of any companies that sell realistic cloth to use in my WWII wargames?
I tart up flannel bedsheets with rattle cans and a light sprinkle of fine flock (sealed w/pva). A couple tables/examples*:
I lay on roads (weedblock+caulk) for those 15mm games but plan to just sprinkle on ballast for the planned 6mm tables – similar to the paths/sunken roads in the photos. Specific areas are easy to delineate with groundcover/ballast – At the end of the day it is easy to sweep up/collect it into a bag, and the little bit that’s left behind just becomes scatter for the next game! *from http://brawlfactory.net/2021/07/27/26-july-44/ and http://brawlfactory.net/2020/06/29/7-july-44/Wow, I really lime your terrain. Ok so you glue roads and rivers on your tarp or if you just put them on top of it?
For me, I would like to be able to switch fiels, roads, rivers, forest, buildings in every game.
That’s exactly the kind of terrain I would like to create.
Finally, I have bought polyfilla, a sieve and something to crush clay into dust. It will be a long work.
For me, I like when a wargaming terrain looks realistic. I have played only two games in the past but I must say that building terrain is also a lot of fun.
I am following the advice of a guy who does awesome and very realistic World War II terrain. He told me to go search for soil on a farm, to break it down, dry it, break it down again until it becomes likes a powder. That’s what I want to do.
Here is a photo of his terrain.
Here is a video of another technique with tile grout I have just discovered and want to try.
And you say this is all new to you? Seems as good, or better than I’ve seen from gamers with years of experience! Nicely done!
Wow, thank you very much for the kind words. Yes I am new to this hobby but I started building model railroading n scale building last year only. I read and watch lots of videos to improve my skills. And most important, I practice and make trials and errors.
I am still painting my evergrowing german army but I decided that I want to start building terrain too. This will give me the chance to start playing.
Here are a few photos of my first tile. There will be hills with lots of trees and a little road in the middle.
I am making some progress with painting my german army. Still lots of work to do. And I have not started my terrain yet.
Painting my russian army will be done a little bit later. I want to paint a few russian units and build some terrain before painting the rest of the units. This way, I would not have to wait a few months before playing my first game.
Here is a building I have just finished painting and varnished. I have a few other buildings, lots of railroads, bridges, rock walls and a lots of vehicules and infantry to paint.
Not the best painter in the world but will share my sci-fi efforts here.
You are underevaluating your talent (I don’t know if this word exist in english). You have a great talent and those little bears are really well painted. I am sure there are lots of people who would pay you for painting their miniatures.
Keep up the good work!
I just finished painting my five Jagdpanzer. They are now drying after I gave them a coat of Vallejo Matt Varnish. I have now found a way to make to improve the camouflage.
Next project, the Hanomag Sdkfz251.
Here is the final result after painting my first 6mm german Jagdpanzer. The model looks way better than the photos.
