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  • in reply to: How to paint soft-edged camouflage? #168451
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    Thanks everyone. I have made a little test on a scrap piece of plastic (a lot larger than my 6mm model).

    1. I drew thins lines of chocolate brown and green to give me an idea where the lines will be.

    2. I mixed half of dark yellow with half of chocolate brown, remove most of the paint on a towel and then took a drybrush and push gently from one side of the chocolate brown line to the other.

    3. Then, I mixed half of dark yellow with half of green, remove most of the paint on a towel and then took a drybrush and push gently from one side of the green line to the other.

    4. Finally, with the same brush, I took a little bit of dark yellow paint, remove most on a towel and then gently push the brush over all the surface of the green and brown lines.

    Mike, I want to test your technique too so I will take another scrap piece of plastic and test it there.

    Here is what I have done with my technique. What do you think?

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    Wow, thanks everyone for your help. I really appreciate.

    Stephan, Four questions.

    1. Are you going to wargame or just model?

    2. Regardless, are you looking at modelling just one each of (for example) a particular half track, all variants of a particular half-track, real life formations, or a scaled down representation of these.

    3. What scale? Or are you prepared to use different scales?

    4. What sort of models are you looking to create? Really detailed with accurate paint jobs, or close enough and cheap beats detail any day?Frank

    Hi Frank. Here are my answers.

    1. I want to wargame and model too.

    2. I want more than one each. I looked on GHQ website and most of their vehicules come in packs of five.

    3. 6mm. I prefer to keep everything in 6mm.

    4. I want to create models that are as realistic as possible but I don’t want to spend my time painting and modeling. I bought them for wargaming first.

     

    in reply to: My journey as a new WWII wargamer #168403
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    Thanks guys for the info.

    I have just finished painting my first Jagdpanther but I am not to happy with the result. I don’t know what is the problem exactly. Maybe a lack of yellow stripes? One thing I know is that the brown and the green are too strong.

     

    in reply to: My journey as a new WWII wargamer #168392
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    Well, after adding a black primer to my five Jagdpanzer E-50, it’s time to add the base layer. After searching internet, I found that there is too much variation in the camouflage pattern.

    1. Do you know what is the usual camouflage pattern for this vehicule during the second world war?

    2. What is the best technique to create a camouflage pattern in which the colors seem to blend slowly against each others? By that, I mean that the brown is not to brown and blends slowly to the green and the dark yellow …

     

    in reply to: My journey as a new WWII wargamer #168353
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    I can help with any FOW questions you may have.

    Wow, thank you very much. In fact, I want to buy other vehicules and units but I don’t know which one to choose for playing Flames of War.

    At the moment, I have some german infantry, 5 german Hanomag Sdkfz251, 5 Jagpanzer, some amerian infantry and 5 sherman.

    I have played to Flames of War only twice but one thing that I remember was to put only one commander visible on the top of the turret of one tank per platoon. So I did just that. Not easy. 6 mm is very, very small. A lot smaller that I tought. Do you see the two commanders? They are two german soldier that I put on the top of the turret of a Sherman and of a Jagdpanzer.

    in reply to: My journey as a new WWII wargamer #168348
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    As above glue the minis to something to make handling easier when painting and remember whatever you use to hold the mini has to be able to “sit” in something when not in your hand. Maybe a piece of insulating foam. I use enamels so can’t advise on paints but do have them “mounted” before you start. Good luck.

    Thanks. I am following your advice but I put too many Jagdpanzer so I can’t paint the first layer of primer everywhere. I will take my time this time.

    in reply to: My journey as a new WWII wargamer #168336
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    So here is a look at the buildings and units I have received yesterday. I also received german and american infantry units (not on the pictures).

    Question: Should I glue the turrets to the rest of the tank or should I let them to move freely?

     

    in reply to: My journey as a new WWII wargamer #168333
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    Thanks everyone! With a toothpick, I removed the black primer from some of the vehicules I have already painted. Then, I washed all my vehicules with dish soapwater and now everything is dry.

    Following Geof’s advice, I will shake my black primer bottle very well before painting and be very careful about not touching anything. I don’t have an airbrush so it’s longer and a little bit more difficult with a painting brush.

    That seems odd. It’s definitely primer, and not just black paint? I usually use GW primer for GHQ (a bit more expensive, but I think it gives a thinner coat and doesn’t cover up the exquisite GHQ detail as much as, say, automotive primer). I’ve used Vallejo coloured primer a few years back for some 15mm, and I don’t remember any troubles. Not really sure what’s going on. And good on you for going 6mm for FoW; I think that scale looks a lot better for those rules.

    Thanks for your advice. Have you ever played Flames of War? I find it difficult to understand how to choose a platoon …

    Here is photos of the book I have:

    in reply to: My journey as a new WWII wargamer #168264
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    Thanks Tony.

    And what about painting the GHQ miniatures? I have added two layers of black primer from Vallejo but the primer doesn’t stick.

    Any tips about that?

    in reply to: Creating terrain for 6mm world war II #168234
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    I have several that came from Tiny Wargames (https://www.tinywargames.co.uk/) and one from Geek Villain (https://geekvillain.co.uk/).

    Wow, tinywargames have several mat that seem very interesting. But I am in Canada so it must be very expensive for a 4×6 feet with the exchange rate and the shipping in Canada.

    Do you know if they have stores in Canada?

    Can I see some close-up and photos taken from a distance of some of your mat? Thanks for your help!

    Was looking for other gaming mats today and Meeplemart in downtown Toronto (Chinatown area) has grass mats by woodland scenic at what looked like a good price. They also ship quick, inexpensive and easy.

    Thanks for the suggestion. I have checked on WoodlandScenics. The only mats I have seen are in vinyl I think. I would like to find one that doesn’t shine with the light, like a cloth mat.

    For the mat search “Static Grass Mat” for online places to buy close to home.

    Thanks. I have tried but not been very successful yet 😉

    Where in Canada are you?

    I am near Montreal.

    in reply to: Creating terrain for 6mm world war II #168186
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    I second Mike’s recommendation. I used to use a green cloth but now use the railway model static grass mats for almost all my gaming. One day I am going to treat myself and buy an actual gaming mat. I have only been saying this for 10 years 🙂

    Thanks but I don’t see any price for this mat. I am in Canada so if I can find the equivalent here, the exchange and shipping price will be lower.

    This is not as cheap a just green cloth, but I feel it is better and not much more expensive:  LINK “Static Grass Mat”

    Thanks for the link. It looks great but I don’t see any price. Do you know of a place in Canada where they sell this?

    Another question; I am new on this forum but is it possible to go to my profile and see my last posted thread and messages? When I click on my profile, I just see some kind of WordPress page.

    in reply to: Creating terrain for 6mm world war II #168180
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    A green cloth would certainly be cheaper and quicker to get started, but there is joy to be had in making hexes! 🙂

    In terms of getting started, I think that a simple green cloth, as Mike suggests, would be a good start. That will let you get playing immediately, which I find important for keeping going with projects. You can then start building the really good terrain and start using that when it is ready. The hexes I made myself took quite a while to do, so being able to play keeps my enthusiasm up while I am working on them.

    Yes I thin you are right. I should find a green cloth to start with and maybe later try with hexes if I am not happy with the result.

    Do you know of any good-looking green cloth that could be used for terrain and that I can find online?

    in reply to: Creating terrain for 6mm world war II #168165
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    I have just discovered this website. He has a Youtube channel with some videos. Have you ever heard of this system? Have you tried it? What do you think?

    https://www.hexterraintoolkit.com/

    in reply to: Creating terrain for 6mm world war II #168164
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    I just use an old bedsheet dyed and spray painted with foam shapes for hills underneath. Soft pastels for roads and flat linear lines. Always happy to answer questions. Mark

    Hi Mark. I really like your terrain. It looks easy and not to expensive to make. On the other side, I like modeling and create landscapes. I will watch a few videos to help me find inspiration. I am also into model railroading since last year and I really like it.

    Personally I like hex terrain. I find the regulation of the terrain keeps players honest and rules make good use of the easy range measurement.

    A few years ago, a friend introduced me to Flames of War. We played two games. It was fun and his terrain was awesome. He had a 8×4 table and his terrain consisted of about eight blocks of 2×2 if I remember well. But I thought, what is he going to do when he is bored with his terrain?

    I really like hexes for the flexibility they offer at some cost in set-up time. This is a WW2 Western Desert game I played recently. I cut all these hexes myself using a hot wire cutter and EPS.

    I also have a European terrain set using the GHQ Terrainmaker hexes. I have a love/hate relationship with those because they are not uniform and that leads to gaps where there should be no gaps.

    I really like your terrain. So you did all those hexes on your own? Can you suggest me a good hot wire cutter and EPS (I don’t know what is EPS because my native language is french)?

    Finally, I’m still stucked. I really like the look of hexes terrain and, at the same time, I also like the non hexes 😉

Viewing 14 posts - 81 through 94 (of 94 total)